Tuesday, August 29, 2006

Hipster Jihad Ahead, Williamsburg on Cranberry Red Alert

subwaytop

It's not hard for a girl to pick subway cars when traveling alone at night. Find one with another girl in it. No unconscious drunks (because they may pee their pants and smell up the car). Lone men who are not afraid of you catching them staring at you, and will in fact try to absorb your stare with a stare-back, are to be avoided as well.

Alright, so last night at 11 PM, at the Lorimer stop on the L train, I slid through the closing doors of a car that satisfied these simple requirements. In addition to the requisite girl, there were two guys sitting on my right side talking to each other from across the width of the car. They were friends and when I walked in, the more talkative one (Talky) said to the less talkative one (Listeny), She's one.

I brushed the comment off and tried to concentrated on my reading instead because I've grown out of that phase of caring what the boys in the yard think. About my milkshake or anything else.

But Talky was toastmastering it up and enunciating like mad, so I ended up eavesdropping on his conversation with Listeny for the rest of the ride while staring at the book in my hands, which had been rendered into a mere prop.

Talky: Yeah man, I can't wait man, I'm gonna just go all out on them one day. One day, it's gonna happen. I'm gonna hurt 'em. Bang bang bang.

Listeny: [laughs softly]

Talky: And I'm gonna get stickers made that say "KILL THE HIPSTERS," fucking stickers!

Listeny: [more soft laughing]

Talky: And we'll put 'em up everywhere, all over where they hang out. Get stickers made up that say KILL HIPSTERS. Fucking Dano is ALL OVER that shit man, he's fucking excited. We just gotta get 'em made up to say KILL THE HIPSTERS.

Listeny, helpfully: Maybe you can get stencils.

At this point, I'm straining to catch every hilarious yet sort of horrifying word, while also trying to become invisible by holding my breath (an irrational habit from my college days).

As we pull into the Bedford stop, I groan inwardly as several boy hipsters come into our car. Peripheral vision alone tells me that they are wearing black skinny jeans, white t-shirts, tats, and some sort of weighty hat (felt?).

Talky waved an arm at the Bedford station platform: This is where they all hang out. They're EVERYWHERE man. It's fucking ridiculous. I'm telling you man, one day I'm just gonna fucking kill them all. Look at 'em. [Holds head in hands dramatically.] It's the 80s all over again! Fucking hipsters. Kill every one of 'em. Bam bam!

Listeny: [nods agreeably]

Talky, thoughtfully: Actually, I would just kill all the guy hipsters. Cos the girls are actually kinda hot.

Listeny: [nods in further agreement]

Talky: No, seriously man, look at her. She's hot. [It is important to note two things: one, that when complimenting the Female Hipster, Talky's voice is high as if in disbelief, as if one is describing having encountered an unicorn in a public sauna, "yeah, it was a horse, with a horn, seriously man."; Two, there was a second hipster girl sitting diagonally across from me that was super pretty and much hotter than me, and whom, I'm pretty sure, was the object of Talky's admiration.]

Talky continued thoughtfully: But you know what's sad man? You see how they have no tits? Well they're gonna be like that FOREVER. Eight, nine years from now. They'll still have no tits.

Listeny: [nods with wide-eyed compassion]

Talky: We'll kill all the guy hipsters and fuck the girl ones! [You don't need a parenthetical here to know that Talky laughed viciously as he said this.]

It's only at this point, as we hurtle across the river to Manhattan, that I have a moment of self-reflection. All along through the violent trajectory of Talky's talk, I had thought, Oh. My. God. Those poor hipsters. Someone must warn them. But suddenly I flashbacked to when Talky had said "she's one," when I'd boarded the car at Lorimer. Since I was the only one who boarded, it like, sort of seems to mean that they pegged ME as a hipster.

Wha?

I laughed softly (on the inside only of course, still holding my breath and trying to be invisible on the outside) at this prepostrous mislabeling. How can I be a hipster? I'm a lawyer, for crying aloud! Plus, I am wearing work clothes. "Biz caz," to be precise. A brown wool jacket with gold details. Sure, I had bought it from the Salvation Army in Astoria for less than $10, but I wore it with only a smidge, a tiny tiny smidge, of irony.

subwaybottom

I inspected my green pencil skirt. Pencil skirt! What can be more corporate, more unhipster? But but but... there is a white stencil of a bird on it, and a whimsical trail of blue flowers, and a big hidden front pouch pocket that allows me to stuff my hands dejectedly into them between "takes" of professional behavior at work (i.e., when I am alone in an elevator). While it was not a second hand skirt like the jacket was, I did get it as a freebie from an independent German/Canadian fashion designer for whom I had modeled her '06 Fall Collection.

Damn.

Okay, and I might as well concede that my handbag was actually an old beat up men's shoulder bag that I had bought at a yard sale from a man with a gristly face who had got it in Turkey decades ago. Furthermore, it was my Day 1 of a self-instigated 30 Day Vegan Challenge. And as if that weren't enough, I was wearing those Chinatown cloth shoes that cost $3.99 and look kind of like Mary Janes, but proletarian (Mao Janes?). A creeping inescapable stereotype loomed over me.

Threatened, I looked up at the hipster girl across the car from me. Her dewy young skin that came from a life time of organic facial products, her light grey skinny jeans, and her... oh my god. Her Chinatown cloth shoes that cost $3.99 and look kind of like Mary Janes, but proletarian (Mao Janes?).

Holy shit. The shoe is on, like, my foot. (Or however the saying goes.)

Before I got off at the Union Square stop (oh. my. god. tell it to stop tell it to stop!), Talky's promises to bring on a hipster jihad began to loop, and he had returned to talking about how much he wanted to kill all the hipsters, how fucking amazing it would be, etc.

Talky and Listeny got off at the same time as I did, and I had a light chuckle (internally) as I read the backs of their identical t-shirts and realized that they both work for the same moving company. I imagined that during the day, these guys are probably employed by the very hipsters they want to kill, hauling their heavy-ass record collections, turntables, and drafting desks from one overpriced Williamsburg loft to another, under the direction of some domineering hipster financier (i.e., parent) or a hipster himself, a whiny rice milk guzzling media intern. And I also imagined that whenever Talky and Listeny have a moment alone, they rub Hipster Boy's microphone on their balls and impart tiny drops of bodily fluids into Hipster Girl's blown glass art school sculptures.

On the subway platform, I walked the wrong way, made an u-y, and passed by the dynamic duo one last time. Talky was loudly coaching Listeny once again on how to identify hipsters, "Just look for people who're wearing clothes from the 80s..."

Look, put aside whether you or me or Jane or Jake are hipsters or not. Put aside the fact that this warning is only 90% earnest and 10% ironic. Put all that aside, and I think that we've still got a problem. Hipsters and Talky, they're all in the same age bracket but living on two separate tracks, electrons spinning in their own respective orbitals. That's fine if it's the last year of high school and everyone's getting mature and the jocks are finally leaving the astronomy nerds alone. Of course that's fine. But where the socio economic divide also distinctly parallels the cultural divide between hipsters and non-hipsters, then I think we've got a sort of problem. Sure right now it's all stickers and stencils and bravado-ish threats. But who knows what might happen if we continue down this path of living together but apart, like Britney and K Fed, like McDonalds and Chipotle?

PS. Alright you suckers, I'm calling in all the favor-owers amongst ye, please come to my debut stand-up show at Comedy Village on Sept. 18, and laugh like your lives depended on it. (And if I ever get into cahoots with a certain moving company, it won't be too far from the truth, you flat-chested hipster.)

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Friday, August 25, 2006

Seven Roadtrip Tips

Here are some tips for your next roadtrip from Denver, Colorado to New York City, New York:

1. Take off your spellchecker hat.



2. Hold on to your cigarrette -don't let it fall onto your fancy shirt unnoticed, setting it aflame.

3. All the clubs in downtown Des Moines are closed. Go to West Des Moines. Check out Aura. The Des Moines taxi drivers have a saying: "If it's good enough for Ashton and Demi, it's good enough for ye."

4. If Carl's Junior == Hardee's, then your_location(Mid West).






5. The transparent acrylic sleeve is the new metallic hook.



6. It is farther than you think! It is farther than you think! It is farther than you think!

7. The new Taco Bell Nacho Crunch Grilled Stuffed Burrito (TM) is only crunchy for a limited amount of time, because the crunchy red tortilla strips are at war with the warm nacho cheese sauce and the former will eventually lose the good fight and become soggy red tortilla strips. While not as fun to eat, a soggy NCGSB (TM) is still delicious, as seen here being endorsed by a fellow roadtripper between his shifts at the wheel.



All photos taken Aug. 17 to Aug. 20, 2006.

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In Kentucky, Part II

This is the Roebling Bridge that connects southwest Ohio to northern Kentucky. Actually, this area is called the "tri-state" because this is where Kentucky, Ohio, and Indiana meet. This is the view from the Kentucky side. This bridge was a prototype for the Brooklyn Bridge.



There is an extremely thin strip of gentrification along the river on the Kentucky side. This apartment complex lies at the edge of the gentrified area. On one side of it are "historic apartments for rent" and construction sites for luxury buildings. On the other side are old community centers and high schools with padlocks on the doors and "buliding for lease" signs on the windows.



There are small churches like this everywhere. This one has neon light tubing on the cross. I wish I saw it the first night that I went exploring!



Self-explanatory awesomness.



So my friend instructed me to go to the Cincinnati Art Museum for a Zaha Hadid exhibit. I sort of followed these instructions and ended up at the Kentucky Art Museum. I was climbing through some brambles on the front lawn, not sure if it was art or brambles, when a man walked by and said "hi." I realized after a while that everyone says "hello" when they walk by you, even when they overpass you while walking in the same direction, and learned not to get spooked by it. But coming from NY, I'd been kind of trained to be suspicious when someone says "hi" and to react by pretending not to have heard it. Anyway, I was kind of spooked and quickly entered the museum to hide from the friendly stranger.

The musuem was cool and bright on the inside. And empty. Not like, not enough patrons empty. But empty. I went in. THere was a "sign our guestbook" book whose pages were white as snow. No guests. I walked into the main hall, where a grand piano stood in the corner and a few pieces of art... I kid you not... were leaning against the walls, as if they had lost the will to hang and slid down to slouch on the ground. I noticed that there were certain areas that had motion sensors which I'd set off everytime I motioned there. I could hear the corresponding "ping" alarm every time that happened.

Then, unfortunately, my OCD resurfaced and instead of getting out of there, I decided that I had to walk into every single room in the museum, every single empty, sunny, possibly motion sensored room. I'm sure much better OCD descriptions exist within the livejournals of those that deal with it more often. But I just like... had to go into every room.

In the middle of indulging in this compulsion, I heard someone in another part of the museum. But I could not control my morbid compulsion to continue sneaking through the museum. My heart was beating pretty fast at this point, so I went out to investigate the "intruder." It was a white man in khaki, who was walking into his office in the back of the museum. I stood frozen for too many seconds, then finally hid behind a corner and watched him until he was safely out of sight. Then I sighed heavily and returned to finish off touring the rest of the rooms. As soon as I finished, I left as quickly as I could, before my OCD bullied me into another challenge. As I left, I saw the man sitting in a chair with his back to me, talking to a second person who was facing him squarely enough that he did not see me. It was fun. I've already seen Hadid, anyway.

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Wednesday, August 23, 2006

In Kentucky

It's 79 F, 10 PM, and the Reds game just let out a whole stadium of fans into downtown Cincinnati. Though they are all ambling slowly towards their cars stowed away in the many large pockets of parking space throughout the city, their movements provide a heartwarming simulacra of citylife. Albiet a citylife in which a disproportionate number of denizens wear red t-shirts and upside down backwards visors that look like Nike endorsed Native American feather headbands.

There are several bridges that connect Ohio to Kentucky, but the one I'm aiming for is the Reingold Bridge, which was built by the same guy that built the Brooklyn Bridge in New York, and predictably, looks exactly like it. Except, with a little less character, perhaps.

I am alone and the air is warm and flesh-like, with enough sense to not suffocate you with its weight but instead moves about subtly, like good waitstaff, barely detectable yet completely complimentary to the ideal night experience.

It's dark but not pitch.

I have a map, folded into eighths, in my jeans pocket, but it is dodgy enough in this part of the state of Kentucky that I don't want to take it out and look like a tourist. Quickly is my proxy adverb for purposefully, as I make my way towards some sort of neon light conglomerate.

The crickets and ciccadas are so loud that I turn off my nano, because I can't HEAR anything over them. There is little light, much treeage, and a construction site. The neon lights turn out to be a cash mart. I avoid it and go into the gas station across the street. A blonde woman with ash grey and dull brown streaks in her hair asks me what I want.

"A pack of marleys... menthol."

A few seconds go by before I realize that nothing has happened.

"I can't even understand her," the blonde says to another older blonde woman working the counter.

A few more seconds go by before I realize that she was referring to me.

"Uh, a pack of MARLEYS?," I point. "Menthol?" I point again.

She shakes her head at her older double.

"Marlboros?" I try?

It works.

$3.35.

Wow.

I resist the temptation to buy a second pack, and buy a lighter instead (55 cents).

Back outside, I meander this way and that, stopping dead at intersections because I can't decide on my navigation criteria... am I trying to leave Kentucky, go further south into its belly, head towards lights, away from lights?

A car rolls by and someone yells "WOOOOO!!!" I jump a little. This will happen exactly seven more times by the end of the night, at which point I will not even flinch and almost feel tempted to whoop back in response.

It's night and I'm here alone and the weather is perfect and I've stuffed my ipod into my front jeans pocket because I don't want to die for an i-product. It's lonely and a vague sadness pulls at the corners of this semi-idlyic scene and, giving into this pulling, I let the melancholy swallow me and everythign around me into itself. I haven't felt this way in a while. It's nice, I decide, to revisit loneliness every once in a while, to wander like a stranger with a cheesy cigarette selection between your fingers and feel the weight of feelings in the bottom of your shoes.

A car rolls by again, and stops beside me. A fat man in a white t-shirt smirks at me expectantly. Shit, does he think I'm a hooker? I stall at the intersection not because I want his business, but because i'm trying to decide what I should do to signify clearly that I do not. This, of course, ends up looking extremely like I do. Finally I decide on a direction and walk away quickly, past a small black cat coiled into a still oval on the ground, like a furry egg. (In fact, it was so still that I thought it was one of those things that you are suppose to rub the bottom of your shoes against to clean it, and thus almost seriously injured it with my left foot.)

The houses were old and all had porches, each and every one of them, like wooden hugs, and I entertained the idea of sitting in 'em, on someone's rocking chair. Who lives here? America, I guess. I felt a warm affection for the anonymous people of the flyover states, the folks who are nickel and dimed by AOL and don't know any better, whose searches for baby names / porn / baby names reflect a poignant wistful quality that I have not found among my Canadian brethren.

Another car rolled by (why do cars only roll by in Kentucky?) this time with the driver side door open, like a defunct flying cockroach. Three moppy straw coloured heads peered out at me.

"Hey, do you know where the jail is?"

"Where what is?" I asked in disbelief.

"The JAIL!" they moppy straw coloured heads replied in unison.

"Take a left at the next light," I pointed, "and then continue south."

I patted myself on the shoulder for turning into a local so quickly. Walked by a few more things (a fancy hotel, a bus station, a library, an empty mental center that had moved down the street) and climbed onto a 150 m long grassy enbankment along the river's edge. The grass was long but had been mowed and chemically treated enough that, laying there on top of the hill, my bare arms began to feel "spicy" from the chemcial irritants. But still, I lay face up and looked at the bright stars in the night sky, the planes that flew around the stars like obstacles in a video game, at that guy's belt, the dippers, and a few other constellatiosn that I might have imagined to have once read about in a book called The Peculiar Miss Pickett. I let my marley ash in one hand, and tried to drown otu the crickets with my ipod, gave up, and listened to the beating of insects instead. I could smell, despite the pesticides and whatnot, dirt. It has been a while.

For the past few weeks, I've been on a roll of some sort, doing a bunch of stuff, not stopping very much, taking initiatives and whatnot. It's been fucking great, but as a consequence I'd forgotten about this dimension of being alive, of fear that's bigger than worry, that grows large and vague at night, that mixes with loneliness in a bittersweet tagine of humanity. I don't know. I dipped my toes into it for the first time in a long time tonight, and then I put my whole foot in, and now. Here. I. Am. On a hill in the grass on my back at the stars in the night with the crickets. Invisible to the occasional car that rolls by.

In this space, work seems a world away. The me that works and likes work and is ambitious has been replaced by the me that identifies with the ragged whiskey drenched tortured souls of the world, the mitch hedgbergs, russian novelists and their protagonists. I realize that I've been avoiding being here, because it is very difficult to bounce back into the stream of regular society from here. I can take structured vacations easily, careening in and out of Activities. But resting, gets sticky. And I don't want to go back but am afraid to stay, here on this hill by the river in the dark Kentucky night.

At last, I get up and run along the crest of the hill until it comes to an abrupt stop and turns into a concrete standing dam. I know that it is called a concrete standing dam because there is a sign that says "do not walk on concrete standing damn. by order of police department."

I walk along it until I'm satisfied that I've properly disobeyed the police department, jump off, and begin the long walk back across the river to Ohio.

I take a different, less prettier bridge this time, and at its highest point, various remarkable bad spellers have written terribly cheesy suicide note-ish things on the hand rail. I slow down to read these magic marker poems, wondering how someone can mispell "no" as "know." They are about lost loves, bombs, missing people, getting even, and jail. It's funny how bridges bring out the humanity in a people. All the bridges in China (and one in Mississauga) have small padlocks attached to the handrail, with the names of lovers in love etched into the metallic surface.

The water far below is even darker than the night, and as I watch my cigarette drop into it, I wonder if any of the people who wrote on this bridge actually jumped over, if any of these writers were so disappointed that they had to go somewhere else, whether they too had given into sadness's tugging and had been pulled too far, too fast, underneath it all. And the feelings had weighed too heavily on their shoes, made sinking feelings in their hearts and snubbed the light out of their eyes. Or maybe, they, like me, were sad but had enough, just enough of a toe hold on the not-sad, that they were able to walk past this thicket of handwritting, cross the bridge, and get back onto the other side.

My eyes rest on particular scribble as I come towards the last of the bridge poems, "Life is a bitch, but I love it."

I turn my nano back on and head back to my hotel.

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Tuesday, August 15, 2006

My First Boyfriend

His name was... actually, I don't remember. I'm terrible with Chinese names. (And by that I don't mean Samson, Grace, Edmund, Wilson, etc.)

It was the first grade. He lived on the first floor in the building across the courtyard. Back then, housing in Beijing was distributed by the government so that all the artists lived in one area, all the scientists another. As a result, opera singers and violinists coloured our waking hours, and when children finally worked up the coordination and courage to sneak onto rooftops, they were surprised to see ballerinas in leotards pointing their toes and flexing their limbs, like birds preparing for take-off. On the streets and in courtyards, moody poets murmured to themselves, holding their hands behind their backs.

In contrast, First Boyfriend came from a mercenary family who had their own driver and a black car with curtains. I did not know why they were stationed with us, but I did know and help spread the impressive fact that he had his own bedroom, a commodity so rare that it wasn't even coveted. It was simply stunning and foreign. You might as well have told us that his father is a snowman. Later, when we were a couple, I went over to his house and saw that the legendary bedroom was actually a section of his parents' bedroom separated with a hanging curtain.

We were in the same class, with fifty other students. He wasn't particularly smart, but he was good looking and because of his mercenary family and private bedroom, we always associated him with a shiny aura of wealth. We were young and raised communist, so inoccent that we didn't even know to be ashamed of our attraction to the material world.

I did not hold any cards. I was not popular and my test results only ranked third in the class. I didn't even have a long thick braid of hair that reached impressively down my back. But I knew what I wanted, and it was First Boyfriend.

I don't know how he felt about me, and I didn't really care. I simply decided to enter into a relationship with him in which I owned him. In every other area of my childhood, I was taken advantage of, robbed of snacks, always in awe of someone bigger, louder, and oblivious to my admiration, suffering, and existence in general. But with First Boyfriend, I was way ahead of my years.

"I hate you," I whispered into his ear, grinning dangerously about our class room. I had been watching First Boyfriend have a conversation with another girl, one of those nice ones who didn't kill earthworms nor have the balls to save bees encased in a cage of soft mud (after putting them there in the first place and then feeling bad about it). I watched them enviously from a distance. Envious of their ability to have a conversation as much as anything else. So I swung myself towards them, between the two long rows of children's desks. It was my first taste of jealousy and I enjoyed how unhealthy it felt, how powerfully unhealthy.

He looked at me, surprised and confused but not quite hurt. Delighted with the drama that I seemed to be escalating, I walked back down to the end of the row of desks and repeated the whole thing all over again, swinging eagerly towards the still-conversing couple.

When I got close enough, just a little bit happier than the last time, I whispered the lovely words once again into First Boyfriend's ear. But this time, he barely flinched and I slid away, daunted, perplexed, broody.

I was not familiar with the concept of "dating." Back then, people were either children or parents. We switched hats in the blink of an eye, as quick as we can. There was no such thing as teenage culture, no discourse on finding oneself, no romantic struggle through the identity matrix. The Cultural Revolution tried to abolish religion and idolatry. But it was as puritan as any other religious movement, and we grew up wary of people with unformed identities, shifting ideas, and unresolved goals. We did not want to consider the villany of romance, the messiness of process.

"You are a little adult, a miniature grown-up," my mom would tease me in front of her friends. I turned my back to her and smiled secretly at her joke, which I always took as a compliment.

"Let's go somewhere after school," I announced.

"Where do you want to go?" First Boyfriend asked.

We decided to go to the one place that we could go to without having to cross any major streets from our apartment courtyard, a convenience store We marched somberly and proudly through the aisles of canned pickels, haw berry candy flakes. Anyone who saw us thought that we were just two kids, wandering around, possibly stealing haw candy flakes. But the truth was that we were actually mini adults, our bond was strong and founded on jealousy.

By our second week together, I was ready for more.

"Meet me in the stairewell in your building. Top floor. After lunch," I commanded.

First Boyfriend opened his mouth, slowly extending his feelings into some sort of protest.

"Skip your nap," I schemed.

We initiated our plan the very next day. Although our buildings shared a courtyard, we were careful to never walk home together.

"Leave me be, on this side of the street," I admonished him. Then, behind my other shoulder, I spoke to a green thicket that snaked along my path home: "I can see you, Nai Nai! Walk farther away!"

Nai Nai was my nanny, an old peasant woman who I knew to be exactly fifty-six years old because I asked this information from her, and other prying questions, on a daily basis.

"Tell me again how your baby girl died, Nai Nai," I'd ask childishly, with neither cruelty nor empathy.

"She starved to death," Nai Nai would answer in her default adverb: softly. Everything about her was soft and gentle. Her black hair had been softened to grey, and her worn out clothes were soft and the colourless at the knees and elbows, as if someone had tried to rub her out with an eraser.

My mother had instructed her to walk me to and from school. A simple task, my mother must've thought. Little did she know the complexities and subtleties that lay ahead of Nai Nai four times a day -I came home once at lunch as well. Simply put, I felt that I did not need a chaperone, was embarrassed about it, angrily so, and as a result I bossed around the old woman who had gifted me with the love leftover from her short-lived baby the moment she saw me, so young I had not yet even seen myself. She was poor and could not spoil me properly with money. The one time I connived her into buying me a small toy giraffe resulted in an extremely protracted, barely understood lecture from my dad, told with the large, incredulous eyes of new parents discovering that children, though innocent, can still harm. Thus, bereft of material wealth, Nai Nai spoiled me with patience, loads and loads of patience. Behind the thicket, she slowed down and let the space between us lengthen.

Once home, I ate abnormally quickly and paced across the living room until my mother fell asleep in our bedroom. Once she passed the perfuntory tests that one performs on a suspected sleeper, I slipped out of the apartment and across the courtyard, brimming with the sound of ciccadas that had spilled over from summer into the early fall, through a tangle of shawdows cast by the giant canopy of birch and oak trees overhead, and into the stairwell of First Boyfriend's apartment.

"Cui Can!" I yelled. Cui Can was the name of a boy, a year older, who lived in an apartment one stairwell over. Cui Can was not my boyfriend. He was our code word.

Immediately, I heard a door open and close slowly and saw First Boyfriend walking timidly out to meet me in the stairwell. He just about opened his mouth when I shook my head no, and pointed upstairs tactically. Secrecy was key.

We climed the dusty concrete steps quietly, child sweat forming along our foreheads. We were excited but did not know what we were excited about. What would be at the top of the stairs? Who would we become once we got there? We had not grown up watching romantic comedies or shows of tweens kissing on the playground, we had not been underfoot a millieu of adults joking about dating, relationships and sex. Those things were verboten in our Communist upbringing; we coloured our suns red in every drawing and were taught to distrust entrepreunuers and readers of too much fiction. We were not children copying adults. We were children following an instinct up the stairs.

We got to the very top, where the stairs sort of turned into a little landing that had become a communal attic of sorts, a warehouse of slightly broken wicker and deflated momentos. We paused. First Boyfriend looked at me for further direction.

I licked my lips and tried to think of something.

Then I kissed him like I'd been kissed my whole life, on the cheeks, the way one greets a baby.

After we traded cheek kises, I kissed him on the mouth.

It tastes like nothing, I thought, surprised as if I had expected boys to come in strong flavours, like haw berry candy.

Next, we found ourselves in a hug. As I found my mouth once again close to his ear, the sheer convenience of the moment motivated me to try for another dramatic moment.

"How many children do you want to have?" I whispered.

"Wha?", he pulled back, startled.

"I want to have four," I replied soothingly, in full defiance of the Single Child Policy, but not on purpose. Because at that moment, there were no government policies, there were no rules on people at all. For a few minutes every day after lunch, we escaped the intricate rules of everyday life like little astronauts, going as high as children possibly could, away from the pull of gravity and government.

As the school year progressed, I kept upping the ante, forcing the excitement to stay constant when we grew accustomed to the current level of intimacy. One Saturday, I transferred the responsibility of calling our code word to him.

His performance was perfect. I, however, encountered an unforseen complication.

"I have to go out," I mumbled to my mother as I struggled to put on my jelly sandals.

"Why? Someone's calling for Cui Can, not you," my mom pointed out.

"I want to go out and play!"

"But we're going to grandma and grandpa's this afternoon, and we need to go NOW. Remember the chicken we bought for them yesterday? Their cook is going to make a big feast for us!" my mom sang easily as she walked from one room to another, gathering our things for our weekly visit.

"But I want to go out and play!"

She yelled at me a little bit then, impatient and angry, panicked the way parents get when their first child first disobeys. My dad wasn't around to be the bad cop anymore, having left us when I was four to forage a better, freer life for us abroad. But secretly, for he was dispatched only to learn from the foreigners and bring the fruit of his lessons back to the motherland, a country that we loved, hosted by people that we feared.

Then she left, stomped out of the apartment, chicken in hand, slammed the door with the other. By this time, the end of our terrible row, I had worked myself into a crouched position under her desk, and spent the ensuing time alone being oppressed by the loud tick-tocking of the large clock on the wall. A few minutes later, she came back, non consolatory, pretending to have forgotten something. I climbed out from under the desk and helped her find the pretend thing, and we moped in separate spheres on the bus ride all the way to her parents' apartment across town.

I don't remember how First Boyfriend and I ended our relationship. Did an adult find out, walking up to retrieve an old razor set from the upstairs communal attic, only to catch two six year olds in an embrace, our pants down to our knees, whispering about how many children we should have? I don't remember anything, except that when my mom and I left Beijing, at the end of the first grade, in August of 1986, I did not say good-bye to First Boyfriend. Nor did I think about him, as I sat simply beside Nai Nai in front of a lunch that she had made special for me, with my favourite foods (cucumber and scrambled eggs, a whole fish), even though she knew full well that I'd just had a farewell lunch with my mom and her friends.

As always, she didn't wear her virtue on her sleeve, but said something absent mindedly about extra food, that she was eating lunch by herself, did I want to join her? No, I didn't, I wanted to run around and climb the pole hanging from the giant oak tree one more time. But Bei Bei, please, come with me, just a minute, come with Nai Nai. Okay, okay, but this is very annoying.

She had secured a room on the first floor, the apartment of an old man in his seventies who she'd started to help take care of part-time when I started first grade. We were in his bedroom, sitting on his bed which doubled as a bench, the second lunch laid out on the table beside it.

"Eat," she said softly.

"Hey are you going to marry the old man who lives here?" I asked gleefully as I ransacked my brain for other fun and intrusive questions.

Then she began to cry and I was scared. Congruent with everything else about her, she cried softy into her sleeve and her body shook gently up and down, up and down.

I looked around uncomfortably. Swung my legs so that they hit something under the bed and made blunt, sad sounds. Everything was sad, it was inescapable.

She only kept me inside her sadness for a few minutes before her generosity and stoicism took over and set me free to climb trees and ravage ant hills, but not before gifting me with some small materialistic treasure that I had been pining for for months: a pair of coloured hair elastics to replace the un-pretty industrial strength rubber ones that my mom had absent-mindedly picked out for me. Those coloured elastics, the earliest evidence of the resurgence of frill post-cultural revolution, must have cost Nai Nai dearly. But I did not realize the significance of her gift, or of much else that afternoon I stepped onto a train for Shanghai in a white ballerina dress that only a young mother would imagine to be appropriate for the first leg of a trip to the other side of the world, where her daughter would pick up many more coloured elastics, a new language, a new timidity, and her Subsequent Boyfriends.

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Epilogue

Seven years later, the two of us flew back to Beijing with two male companions in tow: my dad and the good-sport and big-hearted Edward, my six-year-old brother. We were poor but homesick and buoyed by a recent move from Winnipeg to Toronto and my dad's first job (as a post-graduate reseacher at the University of Toronto), we decided: enough, let's go home this summer.

On the plane, we happily and without furtiveness nor shame collected all of the small plastic containers that came with our meal trays, whether disposable or not, and stuffed them into my mom's handbag, to serve as holders of buttons, paper clips, and stray screws. We clapped our hands and batted our eyes with shy pleasure at the luxuries of flight.

Walking from the plane into the non-air conditioned airport, the heat was so overwhelming that one suspected it of being, actually, a fire. From the tarmac, it rushed towards us, we swallowed and blinked it into our bodies.

"It's hot!" Eddy whimpered.

"Is the air conditioning broken?" I asked.

But our voices got lost in the heat, and the words wilted in mid-air, sighed not unromantically, and fell dead limply onto the ground.

"Mom, dad?"

They were in another world. My father had been away for nine years. Leaving a country like Canada for nine years is very different from leaving a country like China for nine years, especially if that nine years spanned from 1984 to 1993 and included, sure, a notorious massacre, but also a slow and measured reconnect with the rest of the world. And telephones and colour TVs and the bleaching and tidy perforation of toilet paper. Sky scrapers, bad pop music, taxicabs and forced early retirement from state owned companies.

As children always do, we quickly blended into the new environment. We had our own take on it, and were possibly a little bit snobbish and uppity about the sorry state of public bathrooms in our new summer home, but we began to speak with the rolling accent of native Beijingers and we did what all the local kids do in the summer: take summer classes. Thus Eddy took: swimming, drawing, Chinese chess, kung fu. I took swimming, drawing, kung fu, and god knows what else my mother fit into my schedule. Someone lent us a Chinese video game console and we played American baseball on it. We adopted the mid-day nap habit and got used to not having hot water on tap, as well as the prescence of our nemesis, Duyi, our grandparents' housekeeper and a horrible cook, if not person.

Throughout the summer, a steady stream of visitors came to see us, bringing years' worth of personal histories of acquaintances that needed to be uploaded into my parents' specifically my mom's, consciousness. We visited all the new babies, the old people in their dark dusty apartments and memories. No one had gotten used to the idea of disposable packaging yet, and everyone's apartments in 1993 were overstuffed with colourful empty cardboard boxes with pictures of blenders, tape recorders, and televisions on the cover. In 1986, plastic bags did not exist, we brought our own reusable bags to the vegetable market. In 1993, we had not reached the point, psychologically, of a disposable society, though we had invited disposables into our homes. And so, collectively, as a country, for several years in the mid nineties, our apartments went through a form of constipation. We kept our crap in like nobody's business.

These visits were not simple. People expected us and anyone else who was returning from abroad to come home bearing exotic gifts, based on the fair assumption that we had been visiting a land of ...well, a fantasy land, full of luxuries and easy rewards that were thrust upon us like greatness upon Malvolio. It was true, we had wall to wall carpeting and a wild orgy of Transformers to play with. We had alamgated a wealth of furniture, comic books, and sports equipment from garage sales and dumpster diving. And while the source of our riches was a secret, had they known, they would have only said, "wow, what an amazing place you live in, that people would throw such treasures into the garbage!" And who could argue with that? It was true, one country was more comfortable than the other, as simple as a porridge tasting. But one thing they did not know, and we were also too proud to explain, was the peculiar feeling, in a capitalist society, of socio economic class differences.

So instead of trying to explain these depressing concepts, we and all other returning Chinese prepared suitcases full of small tokens of our new luxurious life, which we gave to our visitors, pushed into their reluctant, shy, desireful hands. Take it take it, it's nothing, don't make us bring it back to Canada!, we'd say, chiding them gently until they stop refusing us and left with a tall bottle of Pert Plus 2-in-1 shampoo and conditioner, happily smoothing their flyaway hair down in anticipation.

The stoic Chinese archetype was firmly in place when we had left: don't complain, be generous, were some basic tenets. But people had changed when we were gone, and it felt that they had changed on us. A sort of betrayal like discovering that your child had turned into a teenager when you were out at work.

"I can never come back here," my dad muttered to himself. "I would be eaten alive by these new saavy business types."

And this was true. Our Chinese values had been preserved in Winnipeg for over half a dozen years while China lost its innocence. Even though the purpose of my dad leaving, in the government's eyes, was to pick up knowledge from abroad to apply back at home, even though they thought of my dad as an empty pod, sent out to fish for useful data, to bring back, what actually happened was that they had launched into the sky, via China Air, three Chinese from 1986, and now we'd returned, like time-travelers.

One night the phone rang for me.

"Hello?" I said skeptically.

"Hi, Ying Ying?" a deep smooth voice asked back.

It was First Boyfriend.

While I had left China somewhat precocious (I had a brief affair with an older boy in Shanghai as well, where we stayed for a few days before flying to Canada), I had morphed from the pre-whore six year old into the court jester who hung out with the popular alpha girls who were all at least a foot taller than me, wore dark red lipstick, and, it was rumoured, "had almost done It" on multiple occasions with older, badder boys from other schools. I read a lot of coming of age books and was also extremely proficient, intuitive even, at finding the raunchy sections in Alex's older sister's V.C. Andrews books, which he would steal from her bedroom and sneak into class so that we all huddled in a tight circle between classes, like a ring of hormones, eagerly waitng while I flipped through the book, scanning methodically for key words, until I'd present them with a passage that drew similies between legs and sissors and Mike Naggy would whoop and girls with painted fingernails would squeal in a mixture of delight and disgust. That was me at 13. Harmless and considering Christianity for all the wrong reasons (instant friends, a sense of immediate belonging, unquestioned acceptance). A sharp eye to help the life quest of assimilation, a sharp tongue to scold my family with when we veered to far from that goal. Happy, not particularly ambitious beyond fitting in, and rather simple minded. My phone calls to boys consisted of: hanging up, or asking yes/no questions on behalf of girls with vested interests. I was in love with Luke Perry, though if Jason Priestly insisted, I would probably be able to find him charming as well.

So, sprawled across my grandma's bed, reunited with a forgotten ex, I was reminded of the girl that I had been, the one that snuck up stairs and insisted on partial nudity. And then I became, a little bit, like her, teasing flirtatious, bold and of course, all with a requisite glimmer of dismissiveness, the assessory of every alpha female. I told him all about my classes at the Children's Center, about my summer in Beijing, having to go back in September to, casually, Canada. For a few minutes, I became the girl that I would have been had I not left. I ended the phone call when I got bored with it, refusing an invitation to meet-up since I had class all day, and also because deep down I was probably not ready to meet him and be an alpha female, face-to-sucking-face.

The next day I walked out of art class with a rolled-up painting, probably done in bird's eye view to avoid dealing with angles and proportions.

Sitting outside on a bench was a tall tanned boy. He had the easy, androgenous manner of a man who never had to vie for the attention or approval of women, so much so that he never had to prove his masculinity, and was therefore at ease with his androgeny.

"Ying?" First Boyfriend smiled.

"Huh?"

"Ying? I'm First Boyfriend. You said you take classes here on the phone yesterday."

I looked at his face and saw nothing but what I later learned from Mike Jones, who would be my boyfriend on my second visit back to China five years later, was called a 'pube mustache.' That is, a small sparsely and soft haired concoction arranged earnestly above his upper lip. As if god had been proofreading his creations and paused at First Boyfriend's nose, not knowing whether to keep it or change it, and had in His deliberation, squiggled a faint absentminded but thoughtful line below it. For some reason, it grossed me out.

"Uh yeah, yeah I do," I licked my lips nervously and squinted at something in the distance.

"Well, what are you doing now?"

Certainly not up no stairs, I thought.

"I have to go home, for lunch," I stipulated, relieved that such solid reasons existed. Though they were never an obstacle for us when we were six.

"Where are YOU going?" I asked suggestively.

"Oh I'm going to my Grandma's."

He then revealed that our destinations were not very far from each other at all, and that we would hence walk towards the same bus stop and indeed take the same bus.

We stuffed ourselves into a crowded bus. Chinese buses are not always crowded, but when they are it is a marvel to see how much we want to get to our destinations and how little we care about our personal space. We believe that another person can surely fit into any space with the same happy tenacity that competitive eaters believe that another hotdog can fit into their stomaches.

Up to this point in this long winded story of First Boyfriend, I have been portrayed as a rather reasonable person. Some of my actions may have been childish, but they were always understandable.

Alas, on that crowded bus reunited with First Boyfriend, both of us squished between soft-fleshed men and sun burnt old ladies, barely within each other's peripheral vision, I, gripping tightly my roll of art, went a little mad.

First, I deliberately missed my stop. I did not want First Boyfriend to find out where I lived. My heartbeat increased expoentially as our full bus rumbled farther and farther away from my home and towards, I suppose, First Boyfriend's grandma's home.

At some point, the door opened, and I unpredictably (to myself) wiggled out the backdoor. I looked back and saw First Boyfriend slowly react to my leave and then, twisting his open mouth a little, try to wiggle out after me.

That was my last image of him.

I ran blindly and with a low posture aligning the top of my head with a line of shrubs for no perceivable benefit.

An apartment complex beckoned me into its dark cavernous self and I scrambled inside like a boy or a good soldier. A flight of dark, wide, cement steps greeted me. Outside in the apartment courtyard I could hear First Boyfriend calling my name. I ran up the stairs.

Up and up I went until I got into the attic where strangers stored broken wicker and exta sets of everything. I worked myself into the middle of the attic in a low crouch and listened for footsteps.

"Ying Ying!" and then he tried my nickname, "Bei Bei!"

I looked about wildly. He wasn't giving up as easy as I thought he would. Didn't he know that I had changed, that we could not play the old romance anymore, that my focus and challenge was assimilation, not rebellion? That I had spent the last seven years lying about my parents to the world, rather than lying to my parents about the world? That I did not have the luxury of fitting in so how could I take the next step to stand out? (This, incidentally, is why I think some second generation kids are so boring. Because they got stuck at this step and then sort of got comfortable here.)

I formulated a plan of action. I took off my shirt and put it back on inside out. Then I rolled up my long shorts to make cuffs. I took off my socks. And lastly I took the elastic on my rolled up painting and used it to put my hair up in a pony tail. I took off my hat.

When I had finished doing everything I could think of to disguise myself as a totally different person, I realized that I needed to pee.

Really bad.

The apartment at the top of the stairs had its door open, and I could hear the sound of vegetables being stir fryed, chairs being pushed back and forth around a table, the desparate last round of a video game before its player would be forced to stop to eat lunch.

I tiptoed into the familiar setting, quickly located the bathroom, and slipped in without notice. I peed, washed my hands, dried them instinctively on the damp towel hanging beside the sink, and slipped back out, feeling a slight sadness as if leaving my own home for the last time. I had spent seven years trying, with spotty success, to fit into a rubric on the other side of the world, yet here, where I was born, I could slide seamlessly in and of a complete stranger's home in less than seven minutes.

It was not something that I was old enough to articulate, so I ran out of that building, back into the midday sun, sprinting home with tunnel vision, washing myself of my past.

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Friday, August 11, 2006

In Tribeca, June 2006







For Umsteigen. Photos by Alison Brady, who is one of the most promising young photographers I've ever worked with.

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Thursday, August 10, 2006

Haircuts Vert

I've had some pretty crazy haircuts after moving to New York. The first one was pink and I only had it for a few days before I had to dye it back to black in order to start a new job. That was sad. When you have pink hair, people are less afraid to talk to you. All types of people all over Manhattan. Even in the UES, UES types would approach me, shyly but not defensively.

Then I had a mohawk. Well, technically it was a faux hawk. What you do is rub the top of your head when you wake up, and the hair magically stands straight up without any styling products. You can't see the back in this photo, but an artist did a printscreen with hair spray paint in the back. That was probably the busiest hairstyle I've ever had. That haircut wasn't as inviting as the pink hair, though I did get approving nods from the people in the higher echelons of style.




Finally, I got an "inverted perm" that essentially gave me a 'fro. I kept annoying people with "Do I look Blasian, huh, huh, huh?" It made me half a foot taller and, shockingly, do really well in job interviews... at the end of each one I wanted to know if my being Blasian appealed to their pledge for diversity.





Now, the 'fro is dying. I sort of want a haircut that's so badass that people at work will just think I got into an accident with a razor and they'll feel sorry for me, instead of thinking that I'm being disrespectful. Alternatively, now that the bang trend has come and gone, I might return to the fringe.

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